We publish a few more pictures of the construction of this two-storey house that is now nearing completion. This is a Nordica 94 in two-storey version called Skagerack 188. Superpassive specification (335mm of pure insulation in wall, 700mm in roof), large array of PV solar on the roof and some sections of the facade cladded with natural stone.
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Our customer Gareth Walsh asked a question about tiles in the kitchen of his newly built Skagerack 188 that could be of general interest, so we share the conversation here:
Hi Lars, When agreeing the contract I asked for all floors except all bathrooms and utility to the engineered pine and that is what you included. I am being strongly encouraged to tile the kitchen area around the island. This comes to about 9 sqm. Would this be a problem for you to reduce the flooring area in pine by this much? I assume that the wood flooring you included also includes finishing with oil? Gareth
I don’t agree with tiles in the kitchen at all, I will try to explain our thinking:.
a) In places where you stand a lot, for example around the hob and sink, it is very bad to have hard tiles. In fact, it would be illegal for health reasons if it was a workplace. A bouncy mat is usually located where you stand, eg. in front of machines. This is even more important in a warm and clean house where you stand without shoes.
b) Cleanliness-wise, it is a lot easier to clean the wooden floor than the a tiled floor, it is smooth and has no dirt-collecting grout recesses.
c) The most important reason to not have tiles in the kitchen is because of their conductive nature. This ceramic material is naturally cold to the touch compared to wood. This is because the heat energy is absorbed or “sucked” into the tile like with most conducive materials eg. metals. This would be OK if floor-heat is left on, however, if floor- heat is used under large tiled areas the house tends to overheat even in the winter. Contrary to common belief, it is better to have a wooden floor on top of the concrete, it evens out the heat given off, and adds to the thermal stability of the house. Keep in mind that there is almost a foot of insulation under the concrete. This is why we recommend to focus the floor-heat in the relatively small tiled wet-rooms and possibly inside the front door.
d) If you drop something on a tiled floor it breaks, if you drop something on a wooden floating floor it usually survives.
e) Wooden panels can be used for the walls in bathrooms in warm and ventilated houses. Not behind the shower of course, but for the rest of the room and even behind the bath tub it is OK. We are however always careful to waterproof the floor and walls in all wet-rooms. Our special seal-system is applied before the tiling and wood-panelling.
f) Yes, the Mörkaskog engineered pine-floor is lyed and oiled from factory.
More pictures from the build: