Ventilation & heating

Primary air
When lighting the stove, primary air is fed in under the grate. In this phase the fire needs air from below in order to catch quickly. Primary air is only introduced in the lighting phase and is subsequently shut off.

Secondary/pre-heated air
Once the fire is well lit, combustion is controlled by secondary air. This air enters via two ducts alongside the firebox, where it is heated to approx. 350-450°C before reaching the fire. The combination of preheated air and insulation of the firebox with vermiculite panels produces an extremely high combustion temperature.

Adjustment
Once the flames have died down, air intake is reduced to a minimum. This is done very simply, either manually or by remote control. The very high temperature in the firebox causes the gases in the wood to ignite, thus achieving perfect combustion.

Convection
The stationary air between the inner and outer stove starts to move as the temperature in the stove rises. The heated air is forced out of the convection holes on top of the stove and at the same time cool air is drawn in at floor level. This airflow continues as long as the stove is hot, bringing about a substantial reduction in radiant heat and a distribution of heat round your home.

Sensible wood burning
When dry wood is burned in a wood-burning stove the following process occurs over a period of circa 1 hour: After being ignited the log dries out and heats up. After drying, the temperature of the wood rises so much, (150-200°C) that it is converted into volatile gases and charcoal. As the wood is gasified, a certain portion of the gases produced burn, and are converted into carbon dioxide and water. During this phase the temperature rises to around 600-800°C and a large supply of air is required. If the air supply is accidentally reduced, the flames will be smothered, but this will not stop the conversion of the wood into gas. The unburned gas will then flow out into the chimney, causing a nuisance outdoors and build up of tarry soot. Next the charcoal will burn, which requires very little air supply. Finally, new wood must be laid on the glowing charcoal cinders. Warning: It is important to ensure that you do not overheat your stove, as this can cause irreparable damage. This kind of damage is not covered by the warranty. Extremely high combustion temperatures can occur when using very dry fuel, such as kiln dried wood, coal, compressed fuel or pellets.

Types of fuel and heating values
Stoves from Jydepejsen are designed and approved for burning wood. Combustion involves conversion of the fuel from solid form into gases, water vapour and charcoal. The heating value is an expression of the content of combustible gases – stated in kcal/kg. All wood has roughly the same heating value per kilogram. The lighter the wood, the more that must be used to achieve the same heating value as with a heavier species of wood. As mentioned, air-dried wood contains around 20% water, corresponding to a heating value of approx. 4 kWh/kg equivalent to approx. 3440 kcal/kg (1kW = 860 kcal.) Source: Technological Institute, Denmark
Warning! Do not use impregnated wood, painted wood, laminated plastic, plywood, chipboard, refuse, milk cartons, printed matter or similar. Use of such materials will invalidate your warranty, as they may emit toxic, corrosive and hazardous fumes when burned. They may also cause a build-up of the toxic gas dioxin, which is damaging to the stove and the environment.
Recently felled wood contains 60-70% water and must therefore be seasoned before it can be used in a wood-burning stove. It must be sawn, chopped and air dried, and must contain no more than approx. 25% water before use. This equates to the wood being left in the open for approx. 1 year – covered only to protect against rain. In a wet climate like in Ireland the wood must be stored in a very well ventilated space under roof. It is very important to always use pure, dry wood. Damp wood requires a lot of air for combustion, as extra energy in the form of heat is needed to dry it out. Heat emission is therefore minimal. It also causes sooting up of the chimney, with a risk of tarry soot and chimney fire.

Lighting and burning problems are usually due to wet wood or insufficient draught.

HEAT DISTRIBUTION AND POSITIONING OF STOVE
All Jydepejsen stoves are of the two-in-one design. The inner unit is the actual stove constructed of heavy steel plate and the outer unit consists of steel facings, ceramic tiles or soapstone. Convection occurs within the intervening space between the two units. The air is drawn in from the bottom. The heated air rises and then begins to circulate first throughout the room and then to the adjacent rooms. This creates perfect heat distribution. Therefore it makes a difference where you position your stove in the house. The best is a central location from the rooms which you require most heat. Allow the doors to remain open so that the heat can be distributed throughout the house.
A MODERN CONVECTION STOVE
Steel plates are currently the most popular material for stoves. This has not always been the case. For many years, cast-iron was the traditional material. During the past 15 years, convection stoves have gained increasing popularity. One of the reasons for this success has been the comfortable heat distribution gained from the convection sides.

Jydepejsen start box
In the combustion chamber of your new stove you will find a Jydepejsen startbox. This contains some accessories which will help you to get off to a good start. The startbox contains: Installation and firing manual, glove, spraypaint for touch-up and stove lighter

Before installing your stove
Before installing your new stove, make sure that the location complies with the applicable building regulations. See also operating instructions for information on minimum distance for from flammable materials. If the stove is to be installed close to a brick wall or other non-flammable material, there are no minimum distance requirements. However, we recommend at least 5-7cm at the rear for cleaning access. The stove can be connected to a conventional masonry chimney, a modern modular pumice type chimney, or to an insulated metal-flue duct. Consult with your builder/installer which type suits your situation the best.

Before initial lighting
Once your stove is in place and all instructions have been observed, it is ready for lighting up. However, please take careful note of the following:
The rear section tiles should be removed before the initial lighting up. A sudden temperature change could cause the tiles to crack. The tiles are not covered by the warranty, so ensure that they are at least at room temperature before lighting up. The baffle plate and vermiculite panels may crack under hard impact. These are not covered by the warranty, so avoid any heavy blows when placing wood in the firebox. Avoid touching the stove when initially lighting up, as the paint is hardening at this stage. Touching the paint may cause the steel to show through – if necessary, it can be retouched using the spray can included in the Jydepejsen start pack (see below). It is a good idea to ensure effective ventilation during the first use, as the stove will generate smoke and an odour of paint. Do not stay close to the stove. The smoke and paint odour will dissipate after about 1-hour of operation and is not hazardous to health. For correct lighting/burning of your stove refer to the operating instructions.

Practice makes perfect
Optimum regulation of the air-vent takes a little practice. Once you have had a bit of practice with lighting the stove you will develop a natural routine. The stove will expand and contract during the lighting and cooling phase, possibly resulting in creaking noises. This phenomenon is completely normal for sheet-iron stoves, and should not be regarded as a fault. Please read the operating instructions for further guidance.